Caviar, pearls and treasure chests … we can’t deny the ocean is a place of luxury. Known for their marine influence, Crème de la Mer claim to have created their own luxury from the waves; the Renewal Oil. Crème de la Mer have mixed their iconic ocean Mineral Broth™ along with omega 3 and 6 to create a smoothing, age defying oil. Well we geeks are certainly intrigued. But as the true beauty fanatics we are, we want to know if the water’s edge really is the cutting edge? Let’s find out.

The Claims

Crème de la Mer has finally joined the rest of the beauty world in creating their first oil. Their dual-phase elixir is said to blend bubbles with Miracle Broth and sea-sourced actives to help soften the look of emerging lines and wrinkles while visibly smoothing and firming the skins appearance.

The Science behind the Bottle

The Miracle Broth

The miracle broth is at the heart of Crème de la Mer and they claim it’s a blend of sea kelp, calcium, magnesium, potassium, lecithin, iron, citrus, eucalyptus, wheat germ, alfalfa and sunflower oils as well as vitamins C, E and B12. Vitamins C and E are potent antioxidants, so can protect our skin from potentially damaging free radicals that can occur as a result of UV exposure, and could lead to premature skin ageing if left unchecked. Sunflower seed oil and eucalyptus leaf oil can coat the skin and act to seal in existing water to prevent our skin from drying out and keep it looking hydrated and healthy. Lecithin is another hydrating ingredient; with its essential fatty acid content it can moisturise and replenish the skin. Fatty acids are really important as they can help maintain the skins barrier by helping to trap water inside and forming a protective layer.

Moisturising Ingredients

To help soften the appearance of those tiny lines and wrinkles then you’re going to have to plump up. Crème de la Mer Renewal Oil features several ingredients that will leave you with hydrated and fuller-looking skin including capric triglyceride and glycerin. Glycerin is a humectant, meaning it can attract water from lower layers up to the outermost layer of the skin to hydrate it and leave skin looking plumper and healthier. Capric triglyceride is an emollient so acts to keep our skin hydrated by forming a seal over the skin to trap in any moisture, leading to more hydrated and more youthful-looking skin!

Algae Extract 

The Renewal Oil contains seaweed (algae) extract. Algae are extremely diverse organisms that have adapted to living in all sorts of harsh conditions by producing a wide range of compounds that can withstand heat, cold and UV radiation, amongst other stresses. Avid Beauty Geeks will know that the skin faces these stresses too, and so came the dawn of algae extracts in skin care.

Laminaria ochroleuca, better known as brown seaweed is the most researched and most impressive. Fucosterols are fatty acids found in brown seaweed and can help to protect your skin from photoaging. Exposure of the skin to UVB rays from the sun triggers a protein called Matrix Metalloprotease 1 (MMP-1) which leads to the breakdown of collagen in our cells and is to blame for a huge proportion of the signs of aging. Some research has suggested that fucosterols are able to block MMP-1 from breaking down the collagen, which acts like a scaffold in our skin, so helping to keep us looking younger!

Seed Oils 

An impressive amount of seed oils packed full of fatty acids are a welcome addition to this formula. Jojoba seed oil, rapeseed seed oil, sweet almond oil, sunflower seed oil and camelina ativa to name a few have been selected by Crème de la Mer as they are a rich source of fatty acids including omega 3 and 6. Fatty acids are vital to the function of our cells as they help to form membranes and when applied topically to the skin they have fab moisturising effects! Fatty acids help to keep the outer layer of the skin (the strateum corneum) hydrated which as a result can make the skin appear plumper and more youthful. These oils also help to form a thin film over the skin’s surface preventing transepidermal water loss (water loss through the skin), packing that extra moisture punch!


Last but definitely not least is vitamin B3 better known as niacin. This molecule has hydrating, acne-fighting and skin-lightening properties. Niacin can put a stop to the uneven build-up of the dark spots and even out our skin tone by inhibiting the process of melanin (our skins pigment) synthesis. Onto it’s acne-fighting ability, niacin is “sebostatic” which simply means it can help to regulate the rate that our skin produces sebum which can help prevent over-oily skin and so help us eliminate those unwanted breakouts! And finally onto it’s hydrating ability…niacin application can stimulate ceramide production, which helps strengthen the skins waterproof barrier to trap water in our skin, keeping it looking and feeling healthier (not to mention helping to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles!).

The Verdict

The claims made by Crème de la Mer are not too outlandish but at the same time are not difficult to meet. This being said, they really do deliver. The Renewal Oil is packed full of emollients, humectants and fatty acids, all of which will help to lock in that all important moisture to leave us with super hydrated skin, as well as algae extract and niacin to provide anti-ageing benefits too. But with hundreds of other anti-ageing products out there, would we pay £155 per 30ml of Renewal Oil? Probably not.


Click here to find Creme de la Mer Renewal Oil.

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