We all wish we could freeze time… think of all the beauty sleep you could get, not to mention how much time we’d have for makeup shopping! Sadly we’re not blessed with that superpower, but the beauty world is booming with anti-ageing skincare that claims to help us when it comes to time’s effects on our skin. Hylamide Subq Anti-Age serum is one such product, with a lot of jargon-y promises. Let’s see if there’s any science to support them!

The Claims

Hylamide Subq Anti-Age contains five forms of hyaluronic compounds, which they claim can deliver ‘multi-depth’ rehydration with the improvement of fine lines, sagging skin and textural damage. It also promises to offer instant and long-term hydration, and we are supposed to be able to see results within as little as two weeks! It all sounds very promising but can it really reverse the signs of ageing by targeting the different layers of our skin?

The Science behind the Bottle

Copper lysinate/prolinate

Collagen and elastin are the proteins that give skin its ‘plumpness’ and strength, but unfortunately they are gradually broken down as we get older, leading to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Research on skin cells has shown that copper ions are capable of driving collagen production all while blocking the damage that is associated with premature ageing – this is exciting, so why is the copper coupled with two amino acids in this ingredient? DECIEM have suggested that copper peptides, like copper lysinate/prolinate can penetrate deeper into the skin more easily than copper ions alone, so our skin should quickly drink this ingredient up.

There isn’t a lot of very specific research available for this particular ingredient’s effects on our skin, but the science behind related copper-based compounds leaves us hopeful that copper lysinate/prolinate could behave in a similarly savvy way! However, we’ll need to see a lot more evidence before raving about this ingredient.

Nonapeptide-3 Retino-complex

Using simpler language, this ingredient is ultimately nine amino acids combined with a form of retinol. BBTG regulars will know about retinol: it’s a vitamin A-derivative with serious prowess for promoting collagen production! Coupling retinol with a chain of amino acids is said to help to deliver it more quickly into the skin.

Some people often suffer irritation when using retinoid ingredients, but DECIEM claim that this retino-complex has all of the anti-ageing activity without the irritating downside. Sadly we couldn’t find any independent evidence to support either of these claims, so maybe err on the side of caution if your skin is super sensitive!


Next-generation Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

This ingredient is said to be a new-and-improved version of Matrixyl, an anti-ageing compound that has been shown to increase collagen production in human skin cells (in vitro). This is encouraging, but sometimes in vitro results (these are the kind that are done in test tubes) don’t necessarily mean the same thing will happen in vivo studies on actual people! The only in vivo study we could find was from the manufacturers themselves and while it gives exciting results – a visible smoothing effect on forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles within two months – we Beauty Geeks are always on the hunt for independent data before we commit to a conclusion! Also we Geeks couldn’t find any information on how the ‘Next-generation Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38’ is any better than good old Matrixyl, so we can’t say for sure what benefit it is providing to this product.

Hyaluronic Acid

When a product promises rehydration, we love to see hyaluronic acid in the ingredients list. Hyaluronic acid is a chain of repeating sugar units and it’s a hydrophilic molecule meaning its great at holding onto the water our skin needs to stay looking youthful and healthy. There are five types of hyaluronic acid included in this product and it seems there is safety in numbers as each of the molecules are different sizes so target different layers of the skin, helping to achieve ‘multi-depth rehydration’ (or that’s the theory anyway!) Unfortunately, the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases with age, causing moisture levels to drop too. By upping the water content of our skin, it is effectively plumped out and any fine lines become harder to see. Hyaluronic acid is a reliable favourite and gets a tick from us!

Conditioning Ingredients

This serum also contains ingredients that improve the texture and condition of the skin. Saccharide Isomerate has a similar structure to the carbohydrates in our skin and so behaves as an emollient, helping to smooth the skin’s surface. This is similar to the extract from the red algae Ahnfeltia concinna, which contains carrageenan sugars with conditioning properties. To make it a trio of conditioning goodness, Hylamide have included Glycerin (they must have known it is a BBTG favourite), which is a humectant, meaning it can attract water from lower layers up to the outermost layer of the skin to hydrate it and leave skin looking plumper and healthier. These ingredients could certainty fulfil the product’s claim of improving textural damage in the skin.

The Verdict

Some products packed with jargon-y ingredients can be a little disappointing when we look into the science behind them. It seems that this could be the case for Hylamide Subq Anti-Age too. The novel compounds like copper lysinate/prolinate, Next-generation Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and nonapeptide-3 retino-complex have little independent research surrounding them at the moment. Having said that we were impressed to find our old favourite hyaluronic acid has been included in this formula as it really will be able to help with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Skincare guru Caroline Hirons has lavished her praise on the product and with the reasonable £30 price tag; we are tempted to try it out for ourselves. But can it really reverse the signs of ageing by targeting the different layers of our skin? The juries still out on that one and if you’re looking to invest in a product with proven scientific anti-ageing benefits, you’re precious pennies would be better invested elsewhere.

Click here to find DECIEM Hylamide Subq Anti-Age.

Loved this article? We think you’ll like these ones too!

Roc Retinol Deep Wrinkle Filler

Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate

Fillerina Dermo-Cosmetic Filler Treatment from Labo

AQUA (WATER), GLYCERIN, ETHOXYDIGLYCOL, HYDROLYZED YEAST EXTRACT, SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, TAMARINDUS INDICA SEED GUM, PSEUDOALTEROMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED SODIUM HYALURONATE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6, TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE, LACTOBACILLUS/ERIODICTYON CALIFORNICUM FERMENT EXTRACT, SACCHARIDE ISOMERATE, COPPER LYSINATE/PROLINATE, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-38, MYRISTOYL NONAPEPTIDE-3, AHNFELTIA CONCINNA EXTRACT, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, METHYLGLUCOSIDE PHOSPHATE, CETYL HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE, HYDROXYPROPYL CYCLODEXTRIN, POLYGLUCURONIC ACID, HEXYLENE GLYCOL, SALICYLIC ACID, LECITHIN, PHOSPHOLIPIDS, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, CITRIC ACID, POTASSIUM SORBATE, SODIUM BENZOATE, SODIUM CITRATE, CHLORPHENESIN, PHENOXYETHANOL, LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRAT