Dermalogica overnight repair is the first of its kind. It allows you to customise your own concentration of retinol, by mixing the treatment with a moisturising buffer cream, enabling you to chose the retinol concentration most suitable for your skin type. It also means you can increase the retinol concentration gradually as your skin acclimatises. This sounds like a skincare dream, but can the science live up to our expectations?

The Claims

This powerful treatment cream claims to accelerate skin renewal and reduce the appearance of skin ageing, overnight. The overnight retinol repair claims to help increase collagen production, fight uneven skin tone and reduce visible wrinkles whilst improving skin firmness. These are some bold claims; we hope they can stand up to Beauty Geek scrutiny.

 The Overnight Retinol Repair


Retinol (as you Beauty Geeks will know) is one of our all time favourite anti-ageing ingredients and it is used widely in the beauty world to treat ageing skin. With good reason too, there have been several independent studies showing that retinol can increase collagen synthesis as well as inhibiting collagen degradation. Collagen is the ‘scaffolding’ of our skin, so increased collagen helps our skin to look firmer and so younger. One of the things that comes with age (aside from having to pay taxes) is the reduction of collagen in our skin, so it seems the overnight retinol repair could be able to reverse some of that loss and leave us with a more youthful complexion (yay!).

There is a 0.5% concentration of retinol included in this treatment, so it is recommended that you start off with one part Overnight Retinol Repair with up to three parts Buffer Cream, and then gradually increase the amount of retinol with time. However, if you feel you have particularly photodamaged skin and would like to try the 0.5% retinol, then it would be best to limit its use to once a week to avoid irritation.

Vitamin C 

Uneven skin pigmentation is a cosmetic concern and Dermalogica have addressed this by including Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, a stable precursor of Vitamin C, in their formulation. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate can interfere with an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin (the skins pigment), so can help even out our skin tone! That’s not all; Vitamin C has a double-pronged attack on ageing skin, as it has also been shown to stimulate the production of new collagen, when applied topically.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Continuing with the collagen theme, this peptide has been shown to activate growth factors that are involved in the stimulation of collagen synthesis. So that’s a huge tick for Dermalogica for their collagen claims!

Moisturising Ingredients

Squalane, glycerin, and ceramides 3 can all act to increase the skins hydration. Squalane is very similar to squalene, a component of human sebum (a natural moisturiser), so can be absorbed quickly and easily into our skin to moisturise it! Glycerin can attract water from lower layers of the skin up to the epidermis, and ceramide 3 helps to support the barrier function of the skin to prevent the loss of water into the atmosphere and keep the moisture trapped within our skin. Hydrated skin is healthier and younger-looking as increased moisture can ‘plump’ out the skin and minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

The Moisturising Buffer Cream

Aloe Vera

Inflammation is also a cause of accelerated ageing, and can damage cells making your skin look older than its years. The Aloe Vera included in the moisturising buffer cream can reduce any inflammation and help to heal the skin, preventing accelerated signs of ageing. Dermalogica have really thought of everything!

The Verdict

We couldn’t be more impressed with Overnight Retinol Repair from Dermalogica, and to answer our question earlier, yes, this product really can live up to its claims! Bear with us while we run out to purchase it…

To get your hands on Overnight Retinol Repair, click here.

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