With claims of turning back the clock and maintaining that ever-sought-after youthful appearance, anti-ageing products have made a huge name for themselves on the market. The shelves are packed with promises that sell on science-based claims. Today, we’ve taken an interest in one of these promise-packed products – Indeed Lab’s Fillume Volumising Serum. Lights… camera… Beauty action!

The Claims
Fillume Volumising Serum aims to ‘counteract the forces of gravity and fight facial volume loss’. Indeed Lab claim to target the visible signs of ageing using the ‘latest scientific innovations’ and a ‘unique formula of 5 clinically-proven peptides’… Ooooh get them – so how exactly do these ingredients target tell-tale signs of ageing?

The Science behind the Bottle – TAUT
When we’re presented with phrases like ‘clinically proven’ our inner sceptic can’t help but delve into the ingredients list to seek these power-peptides out by name. Brace yourselves Beauty Geeks, these are a bit of a mouthful to say the least! Kicking off their formula is tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalyaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate (Geek Gold Star to anyone who can say that after a few of your favourite cocktails!). We’ll just call this molecule TAUT from now on.

A little surfing the web found suppliers of this pimped-up peptide (a small chain of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins) claiming that it boosts the content of hyaluronic acid. The Geeks LOVE HA because of its water-holding properties! Levels of HA decline with age, and so boosting its levels is thought to work against skin ageing.  Check out some more HA info here.

It is also thought that TAUT increases the expression of two more proteoglycans (with similar water-retaining properties to HA) called lumican and decorin (although this hasn’t been conclusively shown!). Found naturally at various sites in the body, lumican and decorin belong to the small leucine-rich proteoglycan (SLRP) family, which in the skin play roles in maintaining healthy collagen and overall skin structure.  By upping the levels of these two key players whilst also boosting HA content, TAUT could well produce visible beneficial effects. Fresher looking and less age-battered skin… looks promising so far!

PDDH – another peptide!
One down, 4 to go for Fillume Volumising Serum. We also spotted palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine (they’re not getting much easier, let’s opt for ‘PDDH’) on Indeed Lab’s list of peptides. From the same source as our info on TAUT, we found this component to be a skin-conditioning peptide with a role in stimulating collagen biosynthesis (the production of newer collagen) that improves skins’ firmness and tone, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles. It would appear, however, that this ingredient can have an even greater effect against skin ageing when paired with another (equally hard to pronounce) peptide, but unfortunately we didn’t find this one listed on Indeed Lab’s product. Together, the two are thought to improve skin-tone and have anti-wrinkle action, and suppliers boast clinical studies to back this up. This is all very well, but without access to these studies we’re still left wondering how significant this improvement was, was it in skin appearance, texture or both and how many participants it involved? That’s a lot of unanswered questions…

More peptides…
Making up another of Indeed Lab’s prided peptides is palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxybutyrate (yes, that’s really its name). Now unfortunately we failed to find not only clinical studies using this peptide, but ANY solid research containing this exact ingredient at all! Now that’s not to say it hasn’t happened, but Us Geeks like to see our science, and having to settle for info from the web alone isn’t exactly how we roll. But, remember that peptide that works in synergy with PDDH? The one we didn’t find in their ingredients list? Well, this peptide is related to it, and so may have a similar enough structure to lend a helping hand. But without the studies to back it up we’ll leave the jury out on that one.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-2 is another tricky one to find solid science on! Some digging around however found one study that tested the effects of topical use of this peptide on the synthesis and degradation of elastin, another major skin component responsible for maintaining skin’s firmness. This investigation involved 19 volunteers aged between 50-60 who applied the ingredient in a topical treatment form twice-daily for 55 days. After this time indentation (visible wrinkles) were reduced by an average of 9.5% and the production of type 1 collagen (a major skin protein responsible for keeping skin looking plumped up and filled out) was boosted by a pretty significant 47%. All in all this study showed an enhancement in skin firmness by upping levels of molecules that take care of the skin’s natural scaffold. However, as we can’t access the study ourselves again we’re left with unanswered questions. (We’re seeing a theme emerging here!).

The Last of the Peptide-Pack
The last of the peptide-pack is palmitoyl tripeptide-38, otherwise known as Matrixyl ® synthe’6 ™. Named so because it ‘stimulates the synthesis of 6 major constituents of the skin matrix and dermal-epidermal junction’ (that’s collagen types I, III and IV, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid and laminin-5). All very sciency! This ingredient certainly sounds promising. But again the only studies we could find were from the manufacturer, who showed significant increases in all 6 components (and up to 105% in some of the collagen subtypes!) when this ingredient was applied topically twice-daily for 5 days. But like we said, promising but we’d like to get our hands on even more evidence.

Time to make a judgement call…
Having searched high and low for the science, it may seem like we’ve torn Fillume Volumising Serum apart slightly, but we Geeks just like to be thorough in our investigations! Although the proof behind the peptides is rather tricky to source, we also take note of positive reviews. Caroline Hirons’ praising words that point out: ‘for 25 quid, it easily stands up against hydrating/plumping moisturisers with a much higher price tag’.  If any readers have also tried this out, we’d love to know if it lived up to expectations! But here at BBTG HG, we’re not sold on the science until we see unbiased information with our own beautiful eyes!

You can find Fillume Volumising Serum HERE