Many of you have will have seen the videos (like the one below!) depicting the seemingly miraculous effects of Instantly Ageless, an anti-wrinkle “microcream” which claims to effectively diminish the signs of visible ageing using its “revolutionary” active ingredient: argireline. It’s really kicked up a storm on social media sites, but what’s the science behind the would-be-miracle?

With promises that Instantly Ageless “revives the skin” to give a “flawless finish”, we’ve got high expectation of the science behind this product! Supposedly, it’s all behind argireline, a synthetic hexa-peptide (that’s a small chain consisting of 6 amino acids, the building blocks of proteins). Argireline was found in the hunt for a less toxic, yet still effective, botox-like molecule.

So what’s the science behind argireline?
The sequence of amino acids that make up argireline is actually based on one end of a protein called SNAP25, which has a central role in the formation of some wrinkles. “Hyperkinetic” facial lines (a specific kind of wrinkle) are caused by repetitive contraction of muscles in the face used to make expressions. The contraction of these muscles is dependent on the release of a signalling molecules from small packages in particular cells, and SNAP25 is involved in the docking of these packages onto the membrane of these cells in order to release the signals.

Argireline works to block the docking of the packages to the membrane, blocking the release of the signalling molecules. This leads to the loss of the message that tells the wrinkle-causing muscles to contract, alleviating these “hyperkinetic” facial lines. At the same time, argireline also works to interfere with a slightly different messenging system that also promotes release of these signal-containing packages, also contributing to its anti-wrinkle effects.

Okay, that’s the science covered, but does it actually work?
We were thrilled to see some clinical studies out there on argireline! An early study looked at 10 healthy female volunteers who applied an argireline-containing emulsion twice daily for 30 days. Laser scanning was used to assess the skin’s surface before and after treatment. Their data showed that their argireline-containing emulsion reduced wrinkle depth by a hefty 30% after 30 days!

Another study look at a total of 60 Chinese patients who were treated with either topical argireline emulsion or a placebo (a dummy version) to the area around the eyes twice daily for 4 weeks. This treatment was reported to be well tolerated and safe. The analysis after the trial revealed a significant anti-wrinkle effect (around 48% “anti-wrinkle efficacy”) in those that received the argireline-containing treatment, whilst no benefit was seen in the subjects receiving the dummy. Very exciting stuff!

Other studies looking more closely at the molecule’s effects on skin structure have revealed that argireline may also work to improve the structure of the skin itself, possibly increasing the amount of type 1 collagen in the tissue which naturally declines with age. This decline is thought to be related to the visible ageing of the skin, and so stimulating levels may also contribute to argireline anti-ageing effects.

The Verdict
It’s fab to see products out these with super-savvy science behind their claims, and Instantly Ageless’s key ingredient, argireline, certainly seems to pack a scientific punch! As scientifically-inclined Beauty Geeks, we should highlight that this is not “botox in a bottle” as some have described it (and some of you may even be a little relieved at that!). We’re not quite convinced that this is a 2-minute-miracle cure for aged skin for everyone (as some of the videos might have you thinking!), but with interesting explored mechanisms for how argireline works and trials on argireline to back it up, we are very happy Geeks indeed!

If you like the sound of this, and would like to purchase one for yourself, click HERE!
“The anti wrinkle efficacy of synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) in Chinese Subjects.”
“The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study.”
“Cosmeceutical peptides.”
“A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity.”
SNAP24 – GeneCards Summary
“Quantification of type I and III collagen content in normal human skin in different age groups”

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