Oils are fast becoming a favourite part of our daily skin care routines. There’s something luxurious and relaxing about applying an oil before going to bed, but we’re still on the lookout for the perfect oil which can give our skin that wow factor. Today we’re putting Pai BioRegenerate Rosehip Oil under the microscope to see if it’s all we dreamed of and more…

The Claims
With hefty claims to ‘restore softness and suppleness’, and ‘improving the appearance of scars, stretch marks, sun damage and fine lines’, Pai BioRegenerate Rosehip Oil may just be what we were looking for. As winner of 2011 Bazaar Beauty Awards and highly praised by beauty insiders, we want to find out if the science really backs up the hype surrounding this oil. With a total of only four ingredients, Pai have kept this product pretty simple so let’s take a closer look…

Rosehip Seed Oil
First up is Rosehip (Rosa Canina) seed oil which comes from the typically red or orange hips (seeded fruit) of wild roses that grow once the plant has flowered. These hips are usually something that go to waste, but Pai seem to think that the oil from these hips work wonders on the skin.

Rosehip oil is rich in a tonne of polyunsaturated fatty acids including palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids. These essential fatty acids are naturally found in the skin and they help to support the skin’s barrier function, keeping the skin hydrated. Linoleic and oleic acids have been shown to have a positive role in dermal regeneration and tissue repair, this could be the boosting of natural healing properties Pai was referring to.

Retinol (Vitamin A) is a powerful anti-ageing ingredient, particularly to treat photo damaged skin (that’s skin damaged over time by the sun’s powerful rays). Retinol works by increasing production of that structurally-important collagen and reducing its degradation. However, retinol itself can cause unwanted side effects including dryness and increased sensitivity to sunlight. Rosehip oil contains provitamin A (also known as trans-retinoic acid), which according to Pai has ‘the Power of Retinol without Irritation’. A provitamin is a substance that may be converted within the body to a vitamin, so in this case beta-carotene is converted into retinol by enzymes so it can then work its anti-ageing effects on the skin.

Rosehip Fruit Oil
In addition to rosehip seed oil the second ingredient in this product is rosehip fruit oil, which supposedly has twice the regenerative sterols and five times the carotenoids of the more commonly used seed oil. We couldn’t find any evidence of this, however analysis has shown that the fruit and the seeds both contain the active ingredients of fatty acids and beta carotene (a form of provitamin A), and so should have similar beneficial effects on the skin.

Vitamin E
Pai have included mixed tocopherols (natural vitamin E) extracted from sunflowers. Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant so is able to neutralise free-radicals that can cause premature ageing, and it’s this antioxidant power that’s the basis for its benefits. Vitamin E has dual benefits in this product of both stabilising the product (improving its shelf life) and reducing the photo-ageing effects of UV rays on the skin.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
We’re more familiar with rosmarinus officials as the herb rosemary used in our Sunday dinners. In addition to its culinary uses, rosemary can have anti-inflammatory affects when applied topically to the skin. These anti-inflammatory properties are due to three main active ingredients rosmarinic acid, carnosol, and carnosic acid. Exactly how these components work against inflammation still isn’t clear, but the anti-inflammatory actions is beneficial for the skin, especially if it’s feeling a little out-of-sorts! Research has shown rosemary extract could also be a good option for working against inflammation triggered by acne-causing bacteria – good news for our any blemish-suffering beauties out there!

Extracting the Secrets of Rosehip Oils
Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate is of a higher potency than other rosehip oils available on the market and also has a longer shelf life, which is all down to the type of extraction process used. Pai use CO2 to extract their rosehip oil, which is more effective than conventional methods like cold-pressing. Extraction by CO2 not only gives the highest yield of product, but also produces extract which contains more of the active compounds including carotene (which give the oil its deep orange colour) and linoleic acid. Rosehip oil extracted via conventional methods has a short shelf life of about 6 months because of exposure to oxidation, whilst oil extracted by CO2 can last up to two years, meaning that your product will last much longer! We approve!

The Verdict
We’re pretty keen on this Rosehip-using product – rosehip seed and fruit oils have so much potential, they are packed full of active ingredients such as fatty acids and provitamin A, but there is something missing that the Geeks noticed! There’s not so much evidence out there on applying rosehip oils specifically to the skin (although there is a lot of info about using some of its components), and we haven’t seen anything conclusive to suggest that stretch marks and scars can be improved (other than by simply improving overall skin hydration and health). To meet the highest standards of The Geeks’ investigation, we’d like to see more trials using rosehip oils on the skin and measuring potential benefits! That said, we found plenty about different components of the ingredients included in this formulation. Vitamin E and rosemary extract are valuable additions to Pai BioRegenerate Rosehip Oil too. For around £20 for 30ml, overall we’re happy to give this one a thumbs up.

You can find BioRegenerate Rosehip Oil HERE

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