Caudalie first hit the market back in 1999 with innovative ingredients derived from the left over grapes in the French vineyards. So what ingredients stemmed from these grapes? Caudalie have a bunch of signature ingredients, supposedly chosen to help rewind the clock, including resveratrol, viniferine and polyphenols. Premier Cru La Creme Riche combines all three with, apricot kernel oil, glycerine and jojoba oil-derived esters to create an age-defying potion, but is it worth taking from the cabernet? Take a breath as we delve deep into the science behind the bottle!

A lady never reveals her age and her face shouldn’t either. As an anti-ageing cream, we expect the basics; a strong firm lift of fine lines. Many wrinkles are formed when the skin loses elasticity either from dehydration or age. As we get older, the elastin and collagen fibres which make up the dermis lose their youthful spring and are responsible for the crow’s feet and smile lines. Resveratrol, a little French secret grown on a grapevine (it’s in grape skin), inhibits enzymes which break down elastin and collagen to try and stop this skin ageing process. It is part of a group of molecules called polyphenols, which are a group of molecules central to Caudalie’s skin care master plan. Polyphenols have antioxidant properties and resveratrol is thought to be one of the best for skincare. It penetrates into skin mopping up free radicals to reduce day to day skin damage. Unfortunately, skin damage in some shape or form is very difficult to avoid, but antioxidants can be helpful. Other antioxidant ingredients, like palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract, are also included in this formula.

Resveratrol has also been found to target an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is crucial for the production of melanin, the skin’s pigment. This allows it to act as a skin lightening agent, and may well be useful for the treatment of dark spots. The author of the research, Prof Vercauteren, is the scientific advisor of Caudalie so usually we would be sceptical of this research, however other studies have shown similar effects on melanin production. This can help reduce dark circles caused by melanin, which can be evidence of those late night… ermm work nights (we all saw you on that dance floor!) to promote a radiant complexion.

Even if a product has a high content of antioxidants it is still very important to remember; prevention is better than cure, and this is no different when it comes to skin care. It is essential to look after your skin, and using everyday products with SPF protection to stop sun damage and maintain the skins barrier to the harsh environments it encounters day in day out. Some of the best anti-ageing molecules are not the ones that reverse time but instead defend the skin. Premier Cru La Creme Riche contains titanium dioxide, which is a broad range sunscreen. Caudalie doesn’t advertise its product to have an SPF factor, but it’s nice to know we might be getting a little extra protection.

Glycerin is widely used in cosmetics as a humectant – a water-holding moisturiser. In vitro studies have shown that topical application to the very top layer of skin, the stratum corneum, increases hydration by reducing the amount of water loss through the barrier.

There’s always room for more moisturisers in products like this! Jojoba oil is no stranger to the beauty world. Its molecular structure shows it comprises of wax esters and fatty acids which closely resemble the sebum oil released by skin pores, and is therefore an excellent moisturiser ingredient choice. Coco-caprylate included in the formula is also a skin condition agent, whilst apricot kernel oil has a high oleic and linoleic acid content to moisturise even the driest of skin.
The Verdict:
Premier Cru La Creme Riche is definitely a rich, luxurious, concoction of grape extracts which has some solid science behind it! Ideal for dry to very dry skin, moisturising the skin and protecting from damage seems to be this product’s focus! Caudalie seem to have a very long ingredients list on the back of this bottle, but moisturisers and antioxidants are the cornerstones of nearly all of the anti-ageing products we interrogate, so these aren’t quite the ‘innovative’ ingredients they once were. Resveratrol, included in this product, is a very exciting ingredient, and it’s probably what gives Premier Cru La Creme Riche its hefty £92.50 price tag. This one might be for the somewhat heavier-pocketed of you, but it should do what it says on the tin.

You can get your hands on Caudalie Premier Cru La Creme HERE!

References
http://uk.caudalie.com/premier-cru-la-creme-riche.html
http://www.paulaschoice.com/beautypedia-skin-care-reviews/by-brand/caudalie-paris/_/Premier-Cru-La-Creme
http://uk.caudalie.com/patents-active-ingredients/our-patents-active-ingredients/viniferine-from-grapevine-sap.html#ixzz2ujAi9bhC
Antioxidative effects and percutaneous absorption of five polyphenols.
Inhibitory effects of polyphenols from grape pomace extract on collagenase and elastase activity
Polyphenolics in grape seeds-biochemistry and functionality
Isolation of resveratrol from vitis viniferae caulis and its potent inhibition of human tyrosinase.
Repair of acetone- and sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged human skin barrier function using topically applied emulsions containing barrier lipids
The microstructure of the stratum corneum lipid barrier: Mid-infrared spectroscopic studies of hydrated ceramide:palmitic acid:cholesterol model systems
http://www.livestrong.com/article/210677-jojoba-oil-safety/
Effects of glycerol on human skin damaged by acute sodium lauryl sulphate treatment.
Inhibitory Effects of Resveratrol on Melanin Synthesis in Ultraviolet B-Induced Pigmentation in Guinea Pig Skin
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/729811/PALMITOYL_GRAPEVINE_SHOOT_EXTRACT/
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701534/COCO-CAPRYLATE%3B%3B_CAPRATE/

Image reference: http://www.feelunique.com/p/Caudalie-Premier-Cru-Riche-Cream-50ml