Beauty emergencies can happen at any time and ruin what could be a perfect day. But never fear, we at Beauty by the Geeks like to think that with the continued scientific advancement going on in the beauty world there will soon be a solution to any and all of your cosmetic concerns. We’ve put the Shiseido Ibuki multi solution gel to the test this week, hoping that it can battle one of the most common of our beauty woes – those pesky breakouts! Shiseido Ibuki is a luxury Japanese line that, even after all these years, still continues to yield numerous discoveries and so-called ‘must have’ products. The multi-solution gel was named as one of the 8 products that are changing the skin care game (for the better) in Vogue magazine so we have high hopes for this gel in our current game of beat the blemishes.

The Claims

This multi-solution gel claims to rapidly repair breakouts, roughness and dry patches while minimising the appearance of visible pores. The special formula is said to ‘rescue’ skin with a rebalancing formula that gives skin a supple and smooth feel. As far as skin concerns go this certainly aims to cover as many as it possibly can but can one gel do all this?

The Science behind the Bottle

Salicylic Acid

The miracle ingredient in the formula comes in the form of salicylic acid, a powerful pore cleanser which has become very popular in beauty products and for good reason! Blemishes including acne breakouts are mostly caused by dead skin cells and dirt that combine with sebum in the skin and become trapped causing a blockage and enlargement of the pore (which is what we see as a spot!). Salicylic acid is the perfect ingredient to fight this process as its keratolytic properties break the bonds between individual cells and cause shedding of dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin (gross but useful!). This exfoliating and cleansing power will help to rid the skin of dead skin cells and dirt, hopefully keeping blemishes at bay and reducing signs of enlarged visible pores!

Salicylic acid has been shown to have particularly good results as an acne treatment, which works best at lower concentrations of 0.5% to 2% so the 0.5% found in this treatment is perfectly within the ideal range.

Citric Acid

Citric acid is another exciting addition to the formula list as it also has properties that can increase the natural process of skin shedding. As an alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA) this ingredient stimulates the skin tissue to remodel so we can continue to say goodbye to dull looking skin and hello to a newer, fresher looking face. The top layer of the skin is further stripped of dead skin cells adding to the effects of salicylic acid.

There have also been some reports to suggest AHA’s including citric acid can improve aging skin. Studies have shown they can induce an increase of about 25% in skin thickness with an increased density of structural proteins such as collagen and improved elastin quality.

If that isn’t enough for you, citric acid is also an effective anti-bacterial making it even better for fighting those breakouts and dealing with acne. Studies have shown that when used with salicylic acid as it is found in this formula it makes a powerful acne-fighting solution. However, as Shisheido have not disclosed the concentration of citric acid in this formula, and because it features relatively low down on the ingredients list, the Geeks aren’t confident how much is found in this product and if it will have the power to fulfil these bold claims.

Moisturising Ingredients

This formula is packed full of humectants (moisture-retaining agents) such as butylene glycol, dimethicone and glycerin. Exfoliating can often be drying to the skin as you’re removing layers of skin cells so these ingredients are a fab addition to keep your skin hydrated and healthy. These molecules all act to form a protective barrier over the skin to stop excess water loss and good skin hydration is essential for clearing up blemishes. . On top of this, these nifty ingredients are also able to attract moisture from the lower layers of the skin to the upper layers to plump up the skin and minimise the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

SD Alcohol

We are slightly concerned by the presence of denatured alcohol so high up on the ingredients list, as alcohol can be drying to our skin (not good for spot fighting!) and may irritate those of us with sensitive skin!

The Verdict

Although this product contains some good spot fighting ingredients, we were left feeling underwhelmed with the overall formula. The combination of exfoliants and humectants have clearly been well thought out and put together so that they can cleanse whilst maintaining that hydrating power we love. However, we feel this is slightly undermined by the high concentration of alcohol and with nothing out of the ordinary in the formula, we’ll probably be investing our £30.00 elsewhere.

Click here to find Shiseido Ibuki Multi Solution Gel.

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-Salicylic Acid 0.5%: Acne treatment.

Water, Butylene Glycol, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Dimethicone, Peg/Ppg-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Glycyl Glycine, Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Silica, Trehalose, Sodium Chloride, Gellan Gum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Serine, Polyquaternium-51, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium Edta, Sodium Citrate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Alcohol, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Bht, Peg-30 Soy Sterol, Trisodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Yellow 5, Blue 1.