Having seen a mass of reviews on YouTube and a few requests for this review we couldn’t resist putting Luna Sleeping Night Oil under our Beauty Microscope. Sunday Riley, the brand brainiac behind this product, has gone fairly uninterrogated by The Geeks so far. However, their special style of science-meets-nature has successfully peaked our interest and we’re curious to see if they really have developed the perfect union of advanced chemistry and pure, potent botanicals. Their products have become a beauty-must have on the runways of many major fashion brands but should it also have a home on our bedroom vanities?

The Claims
At £85 per bottle we’re excited to see this product making some big claims with regards to what it can do for your skin. This next generation retinoid oil claims to reduce pore size, improve the appearance of damaged skin, and help fight the signs of ageing by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. As far as skin concerns go this certainly seems to cover a multitude of sins, we just hope the science can back it up!

The Science behind the Bottle
One thing’s for sure when looking at the formula list, Sunday Riley certainly know their botanical products. The ingredients are packed full of organic, cold pressed oils for that touch of nature without having to set foot in the blustery outside world. The list of ingredients looks promising but will they do your skin any good?

Blue Tansy Oil
The first ingredient under inspection is Tanacteum annuum (Blue Tansy) oil which has a whole host of skin loving properties. This special oil contains high amounts of the compound chamazulene which has strong anti-inflammatory (anti-redness) properties. A recent study into this fab little chemical has shown that chamazulene has the ability to block a molecule called leukotriene B4. This stops the recruitment of white blood cells to the site and regulates the cells involved in the inflammatory response so less inflammation!

Avocado Oil
Avocado oil is a rich source of the moisturising fatty acids oleic and linoleic acid, which are naturally found in the skin. These acids can aid the skin’s barrier function to keep in that much needed moisture – hydrated skin is happy skin. 

If this isn’t enough some avocado oils have been shown to increase the synthesis of structural proteins in the skin. One of these proteins in particular is collagen, a scaffold-like structure which acts as a physical support to the tissues and is involved in major damage control of the skin. As we age, our bodies naturally lose the ability to rebuild collagen so the synthesis and integrity of this important protein beings to decline. This means that any product which can increase collagen synthesis is good in our books! This key protein will help to keep your skin looking plumper and reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles as well as giving it that oh-so-desired skin healing power.

Retinoids
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an active ingredient in this formula belonging to a class of chemical compounds called retinoids (derivatives of vitamin A!). When skin cell retinoid receptors are bound with these retinoids they cause a cascade of mechanisms which are beneficial for your skin to be turned on. This results in improved cell turnover so your skin is full of nothing but healthy cells for a firming boost. This cascade can also result in improved productionof proteins and glycans which are really important for the structure of your skin so add to the age defying properties of collagen enhancement!

On top of this retinoids are astringent and have been used in acne treatments for a long time. Retinoids can unclog pores and remove any dead cells or debris which may be on the skin before they get a chance to clog up your pores and cause that dreaded outbreak. These compounds have sometimes been linked to irritancy and instability, but hydroxypinacolone retinoate is actually thought to be more stable and better tolerated than some of its retinoid family members. However, as a result the retinoid activity is slightly decreased so for those of you with more severe acne and skin which isn’t particularly receptive or sensitive this may be a trade-off which doesn’t interest you.

The astringent power of hydroxypinacolone retinoate will also help anyone worried about pore size. Although there is no ‘cure’ for enlarged pores, unclogging the pores from dirt and debris can make them less visible and less of a concern! For more on visible pores why not have a look at our Science behind the Problems page dedicated to just that.

The Verdict
You only have to look through the many reviews for this product to see that it’s much loved by a lot of users and we’re not surprised by this. The powerful formula list certainly packs a punch and a dab or two before going to bed could make all the difference to your beauty regime. This fab brand has certainly met its claims with some serious science packed into the formula list. The enhanced synthesis of structural proteins along with the astringent and antioxidant power Luna oil provides is next to none. Our only concern is still the use of retinoids for those of you with extra sensitive skin. The use of a derivative instead of topical vitamin A is reassuring and most complexions will probably be able to cope without irritation The thought of spending £85 on a little bottle of oil may make your eyes water a bit, but users love this one and it may be worth dedicating your pay day splurge to it!

If you fancy treating yourself you can find Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil HERE

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